Kicked by the Mule’s Derriere

Tofana di Rozes via Constantini Apollonio (VII, 500m) – Dolomites, Italy

The Dolomites might be one of my favorite places in Europe, combining breath taking scenery and aesthetic climbing routes with amazing food and people. Of the routes we have done in the Dolomites, which is not enough, Constantini Apollonio is one of our favorites. Constantini Apollonio is a beautiful route traveling 500m up the third pillar of Tofana di Rozes. The line consists of sustained 5.10 climbing with two distinct cruxes, 5.11 roofs, on spectacular rock quality (for the Dolomites) and fabulous positioning.

Constantino Apollonio Route Topo — Pitch-by-pitch topo can be found here courtesy of planetmountain.com

Below is a pitch-by-pitch breakdown of the route as we climbed it, not to keep you from getting and using the guide (see quick reference section). If you have time, we recommend a jaunt over to Cinque Torri and dining at the Rifugio Cinque Torri for some of the best Italian food of your life or head into Cortina d’Ampezzo and order a pizza. If you are anything like my climbing partner, you might order a second for desert before romping through town to sample every single gelato stand.

Numbers indicate pitches (approximately):

Go out the ledge and find the right facing corner, up this corner to a nice ledge directly below the top of pillar
Traverse up 10′ from the belay and then hard right for 40′ to another nice belay ledge, look for and follow the pitons
Up the obvious crack through a series of small roofs. The crack trends progressively more to the right and eases off in grade. Belay where comfortable.
same as 3
same as 3
same as 3
You top out onto a ledge, passing a gaping hole dropping down through the tower to the left (You will not see it until you are right next to it.) The intimidating overhung wall composing the routes challenges looms above you intimidatingly.
Start up the vertical black wall that changes to looser yellow rock and belay right below roof (Recommend backing up fixed pitons with a cam or two). Harder than you might have hoped for.
From here slap on the big boy pants, up and over polished mank overflowing roof. Stop shortly after to give a friendly belay to your moral support team member left behind. You probably want the rest anyways after freeing the roof.
Slightly overhung delicate face (often loose), lots of pitons and insipient seams/cracks to link together. Belay in a dihedral just below the roof.
Pull the fun 5.11 roof (2 of 2) and then move into the cave. Snack time! This is an awesome belay/bivvy ledge with a few audacious resident mice. Again a plethora of slings cluttering the roof make freeing it more challenging.
“The Mule’s Ass.” Go up the overhung chimney (exposure, cough). There is a belay shortly after you pull out the massive roof. We missed this fixed belay and foolishly linked this into the next chimney pitch, not recommended as it leads to a lot of rope drag and a bad belay for your second (who will need prussik if they pop off).
Easier chimney
More chimney, a little bit more challenging, but this is the last of the “hard” pitches on route so enjoy it.
Out right and romp up the gray face via the path of least resistance or most solid looking rock.
Head out left, up straight, then out left toward the ridge
(17-19) Further left and into the summit gully which you make a few 5.8 moves and then class 3/4 scrambling delivers you to the top

Quick Reference Guide

Location: Tofana di Rozes – Dolomites, Italy
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Best Time to Climb:
Late June to early September, depends on weather. August is the most consistent time.

Gear:

60m rope (single or twins), or a single 70m
set of nuts 1-10
Cams 0.5, 1,2,3
16-20 alpine quick draws
helmet
approach shoes
comfy rock climbing shoes
alpine climbing clothing (rain in the afternoon is typical)

Approach:
From Cortina drive towards Falzarego, after Pocol and a few bends, take the right fork of the road (signposted) up a narrow road that leads to the Rifugio Dibona (GPS: 46.5333333, 12.05) at the foot of Tofana di Rozes. From the Rifugio Dibona, follow the obvious trail to the base of the Pillar (approx 30 min), the route starts at the center of the wall at an obvious dihedral (pictured in photo gallery).

Descent:
Traverse along a ledge in the direction of the great spur of Punta Marietta. Descend the scree passing through large boulders to Rifugio Giussani.

Accommodations: